Manual 50mm f1.8 800iso

1st try at a portraitModerators: Greg B, Nnnnsic, Geoff, Glen, gstark, Moderators
Forum rules
Please note that image critiquing is a matter of give and take: if you post images for critique, and you then expect to receive criticism, then it is also reasonable, fair and appropriate that, in return, you post your critique of the images of other members here as a matter of courtesy. So please do offer your critique of the images of others; your opinion is important, and will help everyone here enjoy their visit to far greater extent. Also please note that, unless you state something to the contrary, other members might attempt to repost your image with their own post processing applied. We see this as an acceptable form of critique, but should you prefer that others not modify your work, this is perfectly ok, and you should state this, either within your post, or within your signature. Images posted here should conform with the general forum guidelines. Image sizes should not exceed 950 pixels along the largest side (height or width) and typically no more than four images per post or thread. Please also ensure that you have a meaningful location included in your profile. Please refer to the FAQ for details of what "meaningful" is.
Previous topic • Next topic
14 posts
• Page 1 of 1
1st try at a portraitwas bored with a mate over so thought i would take a pic for him to put on his myspace acount, so sorry about the tag, thats why its there. please let me know where i could im improve. thanks
Manual 50mm f1.8 800iso ![]() Nathan
D700 | MB-D10 | Nikkor 14-24 | Nikkor 24-70 | Sigma 70-200 | 20 2.8 28 2.8 35 2 50 1.8 | Sigma 105 | SB-800 http://www.flickr.com/nathanjphoto/
Hi Nathan,
I think it could be a little sharper (eg around the end of his nose) maybe up a step or two. 1.8 is quite a shallow depth of field. I am not sure about half of his face in shadow either. It is harder to see the eye in that side. my 2c worth. Russell
thanks russel, i appreciate it, yeh you're probably right about the DOF, something to try next time.
Nathan
D700 | MB-D10 | Nikkor 14-24 | Nikkor 24-70 | Sigma 70-200 | 20 2.8 28 2.8 35 2 50 1.8 | Sigma 105 | SB-800 http://www.flickr.com/nathanjphoto/
Nathan great effort skin tones and perspective are terrific. Eyes are pretty sharp but I'd have to agree in this case I think an f/stop to create a broader plane of focus would have created more impact here and certainlt added more sharpness to the eyes. CAtch light's in the eyes set them off, composition is great too.
![]() cheers marco
thanks guys!
russel, i dont take anything on here to be negative, only constructive and thats just what your comment was, and now i know exactly how to get a better resuly so thanks you ![]() Nathan
D700 | MB-D10 | Nikkor 14-24 | Nikkor 24-70 | Sigma 70-200 | 20 2.8 28 2.8 35 2 50 1.8 | Sigma 105 | SB-800 http://www.flickr.com/nathanjphoto/
Eyes are too dark. There is no life in them. You got too close for this one IMO....back off a tad. Try shooting inside close to a window for more flattering light. Not bad for a first try though. The secret is in using soft light and getting accurate exposure.
Regards
Matt. K
Great composition. The left eye does look a little unusual as the darkness makes the iris and the pupil blend - makes the left eye look much bigger than the right.
Excellent first attempt - looking forward to the next ![]()
Not something we hear Matt K say very often. A bit more DOF, and more control over the lighting to reduce the shadows would make a significant improve, that said its a very decent start for a first attempt!
Nathan,
Great shot. Colours/wb are spot on on this one, so that's the first thing put to bed. As others have noted, the DoF is a little light; perhaps a slightly smaller aperture to increase this, and thus the overall sharpness as well, might be in order. Remember too that the lens has a sweet spot, and as you get down towards f/5.6 you should be right in that zone. Exposure ... you're right on the edge of the contrast range of the sensor with this one. The left hand side of the face (as we're viewing it) is just within the range available to you. It would be interesting to see a similar shot, but with either a reflector placed somewhere to our right (as viewed) or else with a very low level of fill flash added, to help reduce the contrast range exposed in the image. The idea is to increase the amount of light available for the exposure and thus bring the two sides closer together in that regard. A small piece of foam core board could be helpful to use as a reflector ... or think too about perhaos moving the subject a bit further away from the light source that was used in this image. Well done. g.
Gary Stark Nikon, Canon, Bronica .... stuff The people who want English to be the official language of the United States are uncomfortable with their leaders being fluent in it - US Pres. Bartlet
thanks everyone for you input. it is really, really helpful!
i'll try and get him to come around this arvo for a second attempt ![]() Nathan
D700 | MB-D10 | Nikkor 14-24 | Nikkor 24-70 | Sigma 70-200 | 20 2.8 28 2.8 35 2 50 1.8 | Sigma 105 | SB-800 http://www.flickr.com/nathanjphoto/
Good advice. I just had a bit of a look on the net and the human eye can see a range of approx. 20 stops of light, however only about 6.5 stops at any one time. The ave. digital camera would see approx. 5 stops of light. Therefore, the range of what you're eyes are seeing is more than that of what your camera will see. To understand what you are seeing, and to bring the "dynamic range" back into within 5 stops of lightest area to darkest area is the trick. By using fill-flash or a reflector, you are attempting to brighten the darker areas so the difference between the highlights and the shadows are "effectively" brought closer together, hopefully to within 5 stops of each other. Beyond that, your histogram will show clipping and you will be under/overexposing certain parts of your image. Please correct me if my theory is incorrect... Dave
Nikon D7000 | 18-105 VR Lens | Nikon 50 1.8G | Sigma 70-300 APO II Super Macro | Tokina 11-16 AT-X | Nikon SB-800 | Lowepro Mini Trekker AWII Photography = Compromise
thanks dave that is really cool info to know, and helps my understanding of highlights on the sensor a lot!
i have had another attempt i will post it now. ![]() Nathan
D700 | MB-D10 | Nikkor 14-24 | Nikkor 24-70 | Sigma 70-200 | 20 2.8 28 2.8 35 2 50 1.8 | Sigma 105 | SB-800 http://www.flickr.com/nathanjphoto/
Previous topic • Next topic
14 posts
• Page 1 of 1
|