DSLRUsers.com

the complex, yet fragile cable in my location kit battery failed, so backup was to use SB600. Bounced the sb600 off a 1x2m rectangular reflector (sunlite fabric).

Gave nice full length light. Rechargables worked a treat also, very fast recycle times.

looking for feedback on this one...
(shot is intentionally warm WB)

Great shot .The WB looks good to me . Really nice colour and composition . BUT .You need to change your point of focus .All your shots have the models faces slightly out of focus .Its the first thing you see.Particulary in shots where the model is staring straight into the camera .Its very distracting .

I really like the warm tones in this shot...and while I freely admit to now knowing a thing about lighting I like the way it is lit also...the pose is provacative without being sleazy...well done..

drifter wrote:Great shot .The WB looks good to me . Really nice colour and composition . BUT .You need to change your point of focus .All your shots have the models faces slightly out of focus .Its the first thing you see.Particulary in shots where the model is staring straight into the camera .Its very distracting .

thanks, yes I'll check my gear and make sure the settings are right. Almost all of the shots are just a little out, even those with f11. Maybe my technique is way off the mark.

thanks for the feedback.

Bruce,

I like this shot composition wise. The first thing you need to watch is the focus point. The focus misses the face I think here, again. Also, WB seems a tad warm, although if that was the look you were going for then it's fine.

Alex

Alex wrote:Bruce,

I like this shot composition wise. The first thing you need to watch is the focus point. The focus misses the face I think here, again. Also, WB seems a tad warm, although if that was the look you were going for then it's fine.

Alex

Thanks Alex.

Am I missing a step, as Nikon is new to me.

I have AF-Lock on, so I can focus lock with the thumb "AF-ON" button (D200), I have focus mode set to single area, with the area selected by the brackets as the centre bracket pair, I focus, then I reframe, and take the shot.

That's it right?

I was concious to focus on eyelashes, but 80% are out

Bruce,

For focus, try shifting the focus point to one that's nearer the top of your frame, and set your focus with that point on the model's eyes.

And what aperture are you using? Don't forget to take a but of advantage of Dof and your lens's sweet spot.

I do like the wb in this; it's a warmer feel, and looks to me to be somewhat closer to the feel I like to get in my shots using a custom curve.

i like the urbaness

regarding your focus maybe your camera has a backfocus issue
if your getting focus lock on the face at f11 everything should be fine

hi

the very bright area in the background is very distracting.

beautiful model

christian

wendellt wrote:i like the urbaness

regarding your focus maybe your camera has a backfocus issue
if your getting focus lock on the face at f11 everything should be fine

This location has lots of sets. old brick, graffitti, timber victorian doors, steel, rust, fences. Its a great place.

Just checked my focus settings, was using AF-C which does not require refocus between shots.

So, its one of two things, I'm either moving the zoom ring, or the backfocus issue (dont know what that is, but it sounds like a manufacturing fault?)

backfocus issue hapens when the ccd is out of alignment with the film plane
this happens vias manufacturing fault or if you bang your camera hard

i had this issue once and i had to bring camera and lens back to nikon for re-calibration

try using AF-S and try not to preset focus and re-compose
see what happens, with the assistance of flash your focus should be pin sharp

underexposed shots tend to look blury

wendellt wrote:backfocus issue hapens when the ccd is out of alignment with the film plane

Not quite.

Focus is acheived through the use of a separate focus sensor in the bottom of the mirror box. The centre section of the reflex mirror is semi-silvered, and behind that mirror is another mirror, that reflects the image down onto the focus sensor.

Backfocus usually occurs as a result of the secondary mirror being slightly out of alignment and thereby altering the distance that the light needs to travel to the focus sensor from the subject. That distance needs to be the same as the distance from the subject to the focal plane, but if it's not ...

The distances we're discussing here are very small, but at this end of the focus equation, even 1mm will be a significant percentage of the depth of focus range available.

The upshot is that, if there's a slight problem, the focus sensor says you're in focus, but you're not. That results in either a backfocus, or a frontfocus, issue.

thanks for the clarity, and valuable feedback wendellt and Gary.

I have downloaded a focus test panel, and will test tomorrow.

thank you very much!

thanks for correcting me on that

to me the problem is that you are using AF-C which is continuous auto focus
that is the camera keeps refocusing as you move it when the shutter is half pressed (or AF-ON button in your case)... it doesn't lock so when you focused on the eyes then re-composed, the camera focused on the chest instead

use AF-S (single focus) to get focus lock then recompose, but remember the face can fall out of the focal plane when you re-compose if you are shooting from down low or up high (or large angle). Then it is better to use one of the outer focus points so you don't have to move the camera as far to re-compose

I think I will eliminate a few variables of human error first... appreciate the solid feedback.

firsty wrote:to me the problem is that you are using AF-C which is continuous auto focus
that is the camera keeps refocusing as you move it when the shutter is half pressed (or AF-ON button in your case)... it doesn't lock so when you focused on the eyes then re-composed, the camera focused on the chest instead

use AF-S (single focus) to get focus lock then recompose, but remember the face can fall out of the focal plane when you re-compose if you are shooting from down low or up high (or large angle). Then it is better to use one of the outer focus points so you don't have to move the camera as far to re-compose

Kieth,

There should be a means of holding focus once it has been acquired.

On the D70 there's a button on the back that you can press with your thumb to do this. So you press the shutter halfway, you acquire focus, you press the button to hold focus, you recompose, and then you shoot.

I'm sure the D200 would have similar functionality.

firsty wrote:to me the problem is that you are using AF-C which is continuous auto focus
that is the camera keeps refocusing as you move it when the shutter is half pressed (or AF-ON button in your case)... it doesn't lock so when you focused on the eyes then re-composed, the camera focused on the chest instead

use AF-S (single focus) to get focus lock then recompose, but remember the face can fall out of the focal plane when you re-compose if you are shooting from down low or up high (or large angle). Then it is better to use one of the outer focus points so you don't have to move the camera as far to re-compose

AF-C, allows me to shoot after I release the AF-ON button. while the subject is not moving, nor I, I can shoot with a rapid rate. I can use the same lock a re-compose function under AF-S, I just need to hold the AF-ON button. I think both work well, but if I am set, I lilke to use AF-C so I dont have to hold the AF-ON button while shooting. I'll practice some more with both.

so you have focus set to the AF_ON button only (menu a6) and the shutter button only works the shutter not the auto focus ??
because if you don't the camera will refocus when you push the shutter button
you do know that you can change the AF-S mode priority (menu a2) from focus to release so you can take a shot when the camera doesn't think it is focused... use the AF-ON button to get focus lock then take your thumb off it and shoot away with the shutter till next time you want to refocus with the AF-On button

Gary
the D200 has an extra AF_ON button next to the AE_L/AF-L lock button that acts as a shutter half press and you can use it with the half press on the the shutter or turn the half press off on the shutter and use the back button only

Or - dare I say - Manual focus on the eyes. You are using a model and posing her. You have the time to get it right.

Sometimes too much technology can be a bad thing
(Of course, you still need to sort out the OOF issue when using AF.)

Well, after a sleepless night, I am pleased to know that my technique needs some work.

I believe the focus issues to be due to my poor technique, and choice of point of focus.

I used two simple techniques to test my camera, and 3 lenses, http://focustestchart.com/chart.html

Confirmed ok with these kinds of test shots...

85mm, @ 1.4 (bear in mind, that this is razor sharp DOF at 1.4)

200 at 2.8


And a less technical, but clearer presentation, battery is 5cm in front of the barcode.





ALso very relieved to find out my location pack has a faulty lead, and that hopefully warranty will cover repair/replaced lead.

Thank you to all for contributing, and helping force me to test myself, love the learning, thanks!