Big Red wrote:so i used the flash handheld and held at ground level
My gut feel wasn't too far off, then.

While I accept what you're saying about the different colorations of the various objects, the wb of your flash wasn't being too helpful here either, as it's going to give you a somewhat higher colour temperatue for things that it's illuminating, whereas the other other stuff is being lit by photofloods or similar, with a lower colour temperature, and thus they'll appear warmer.
Difficult situation to get around, but a correcting gel on the flash may have been of some use in that regard.
with a guess of the distance needed for a full flash test shot so i could still get the long exposure needed on the Pagoda.
Ok .... think about this for a technique.
Start by metering for the main scene .... and take those values. Let's say 1/4 @ f/5.6, ISO 200. The actual numbers don't matter too much - I'm simply trying to explain a concept.
When you're metering, try to use spot, and try to get a value from a place that's neither too bright, nor too dark, in the area in question. This will give you a mid-range, baseline starting point.
Use those values as the basis for your exposure. It will be likely, from what you're describing, that the foreground object will be dark at that metered exposure.
That's to be expected, and this is where you bring your flash into play. Set the flash onto it's A
mode (not a TTL A, but just a traditional, simple old aperture setting
mode. Set the power (aperture) value to f/5.6 or f/6.3, which is the same aperture that you're metering and setting your exposure for.
Now make your exposure, and chimp your histogram, understanding that it's an expected outcome for this subject that it should be doing a Julia - tending (probably somewhat heavily) towards the left.

the whole area is surrounded with no room to move back so it was quite hard to get the whole thing in as it is quite tall
You should still be able to rotate the camera into a portrait
mode, which will give you a greater vertical area in your frame, even shooting from the same position.