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Got a thin skin? Then look elsewhere. Post a link to an image that you've made, and invite others to offer their critiques. Honesty is encouraged, but please be positive in your constructive criticism. Flaming and just plain nastiness will not be tolerated. Please note that this is not an area for you to showcase your images, nor is this a place for you to show-off where you have been. This is an area for you to post images so that you may share with us a technique that you have mastered, or are trying to master. Typically, no more than about four images should be posted in any one post or thread, and the maximum size of any side of any image should not exceed 950 px.
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 by NikonUser on Tue Dec 27, 2005 9:35 pm
Hi there,
It seems like I post a different one of these every week. They seem to be the only bird that actually will sit infront of my lens.
Maybe I was a Honeyeater in my past life.
ISO500, 1/100, f4, 500mm, SB800 (1/8 power, manual), Slight Crop
Improvements are slow but I'm getting there. This one seems to be sharper than last weeks. Still a little detail missing in the feathers due to lens movement (I think). There are a few more good (IMO) ones but I won't get time to process them until at least tomorrow.
Please comment and critique... Every comment runs through my mind when I'm out there the next time and they all help 
Paul
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NikonUser
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by cc@t on Tue Dec 27, 2005 10:21 pm
Great shot NU - I really like the frame you use too - do you have an action for that or one I can download from somewhere ??
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by avkomp on Tue Dec 27, 2005 10:55 pm
Paul, the areas of white look quite hot to me, I think that is in the areas where you say that there is no detail. Is hard to tell due to the size of the image.
I usually use centreweighted metering with birds and the flash on ttl/bl but @-1ev
when I shoot birds with lots of white in them I find that that is too much flash and have to go to -1.3 or -1.6
Kookaburras are a good example. mostly they are a kinda off white colour but their foreheads just about always blow when I dont cut the flash back a little more.
If I suspect hightlights might blow, I set the camera to display blown highlights as flashing areas and have a quick look at the screen to check. even if you cant see the screen correctly due to bright sunlight, you will still see highlights blinking.
If this thing will sit there and let you get a few shots you could try that.
Steve
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by NikonUser on Tue Dec 27, 2005 11:01 pm
They are pretty hot. According to the "L" button in Nikon Capture they aren't blown out though. Maybe I can tone them down a bit.
For the moment I'm using the flash on manual power as I don't yet have a sync cord. (It should be here within two weeks). I've tried using the various remote modes but all the pre-flashes tend to scare the bird away before the main flash goes off.
I will certainly keep those tips in mind when the cord gets here.
Paul
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by Manta on Tue Dec 27, 2005 11:04 pm
Love the shot Paul. I think you're right about your previous existence - you certainly have an affinity with your feathered brethren.
Nice tips about the flash settings Steve - I've noted these for next time I get close enough. If, however, I'm using the Beamer, should I also step down the EV?
Last edited by Manta on Tue Dec 27, 2005 11:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by avkomp on Tue Dec 27, 2005 11:10 pm
yes, because in ttl camera is measuring the light coming back from the subject. even in close when using the beamer it can make your flash cycle faster and get better battery life because you are concentrating the light where you need it.
the compensation settings I use have been tested on willing subjects that will let me do a bunch of different stuff and pick the best. Blown highlights are the easiest to detect in the field. Just about anything else can be fixed later in PP, but you cant replace lost highlights
Steve
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by Manta on Tue Dec 27, 2005 11:15 pm
avkomp wrote:yes, because in ttl camera is measuring the light coming back from the subject. even in close when using the beamer it can make your flash cycle faster and get better battery life because you are concentrating the light where you need it.
the compensation settings I use have been tested on willing subjects that will let me do a bunch of different stuff and pick the best. Blown highlights are the easiest to detect in the field. Just about anything else can be fixed later in PP, but you cant replace lost highlights
Steve
Great. I agree about the highlights - I have my LCD set to show them always. Thankfully, I'm seeing less and less flashing these days as my technique improves and I learn better methods of exposure.
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by avkomp on Tue Dec 27, 2005 11:15 pm
Paul:
I use an sc-28 sync cable with my sb800 (thanks Birdy)
that comes with a cord plenty long enough to fit on a bracket or another tripod or what ever you want. you get full ttl control so you dont scare em off.
Steve
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by NikonUser on Tue Dec 27, 2005 11:19 pm
I have an SC-28 on the way. Mum and Dad ordered me one off Ebay apparently and it's coming. Christmas never ends
Paul
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by avkomp on Tue Dec 27, 2005 11:23 pm
you will like the sc-28 it will solve you woes.
I am using one of my old metz brackets for the flash, essentially not much more than a flat piece of aluminium with a slot thru which a screw attaches it to the camera and it has another screw at the other end which goes into the sc-28. brutal but works.
might get one of those rrs things one day.
Steve
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